This month's topic: Seafood
At forefront of Joe Fortes’ culinary team is Scott Pratico, whose positive attitude and creative style have helped keep the restaurant top of mind with locals and tourists alike. Originally from Revelstoke, B.C., Scott was exposed to organic, farm fresh foods at a very young age, which inspired him to pursue a career in the culinary arts. He apprenticed under chef Grant de Montreuile in Kelowna, B.C. and excelled at high profile resorts including Emerald Lake Lodge, the Hotel Eldorado, Lake Okanagan Resort, the Westin Bayshore Resort and Marina and the Delta Pacific Resort and Convention Centre, among others. As Joe Fortes Executive Chef he is revered for his humble, team-player attitude and commitment to quality.
Q: Why do restaurants leave the tail on shrimp? I know it's supposed to be a nicer presentation. If you are using your fingers, the tail does give you a little handle with which to scoop up cocktail sauce. However, if you're using a fork, it makes no sense. Especially if the shrimp is in a sauce poured over pasta for example. You can never dig that little morsel out of the tail and I hate to leave half the shrimp in discarded tails. - Ann Waller, Glastonbury, CT
A: Dear Ann, A basic premise of cooking is that all items in a dish should be edible. While this is not always practical, like in the case of a whole roasted fish cooked on the bone, it should be adhered to as much as possible. You are correct when you say that the tail makes an excellent handle, as with tempura shrimp. However, in pasta dish the tail is more of an annoyance than a help. I would suggest that you retrieve any leftover bits by pinching the tail between your thumb and fore-finger to pop out the tail meat. Alternately, ask the waiter to pass along that you are a purist, and do not want your supper sullied with silly, superfluous shrimp shells. Try saying that five times fast!
Q: Is there a way to find out, before cooking, if a lobster tail is infected? Sometimes after cooking, it seems that it just falls into pieces. A butcher told me that is because a parasite ate the cartilage in between the meat. - Braulio Delatorre, Corpus Christi, TX
A: Dear Braulio, This is a bit of a mystery even to scientists that wrestle with this problem. According to the Atlantic Veterinary College, this condition could be caused by a number of causes including: molting stages (shedding of shell), parasitic infection, stress during handling or a release of enzymes from the liver. There is no hard evidence as to the exact cause.
I would advise that you spend the extra money to purchase live Atlantic or Spiny Lobster from a reputable fish monger-one that will refund you for the rare occurrence of a mushy live lobster. I find that the frozen Caribbean Slipper tails are a poor substitute for the real thing and are frequently mushy, especially if they are not eaten immediately after thawing.
Q: How do you prepare halibut in such a way that is does not come out oily? - Cybill Valentine, Silver Spring, MD
A: Dear Cybill, Halibut lives in the cold northern waters of the Atlantic and Pacific. As a result, these fish are naturally high in oils. Fat is its defense against the cold. It also makes Halibut an excellent seafood dish because of it’s rich buttery texture, high Omega 3 fatty acids, and resistance to over-cooking.
One of my favorite ways to cook Halibut is poaching. Fill a heavy pot with enough water to just submerge the halibut filets, add a splash of white wine, a few peppercorns, a bay leaf, some well-washed leeks, a healthy pinch of salt and a slice or two of lemon. Bring the water to a low simmer and gently place the halibut in the pot. Do not allow the water to boil during cooking –a gentle simmer is ideal. When the filets are firm and release large flakes easily (about 15 minutes), the Halibut is done. Gently lift the filets from the water with a large slotted spatula and serve immediately with plenty of fresh lemon wedges and some spring asparagus. I guarantee this will knock your socks off while not being the least bit oily.
Q: G'Day. What would I be able to use to spice up grilled fish without changing the flavor? What are some other ways to season grilled fish? - Brad Moore, Forresters Bch. N.S.W.
A: Cayenne pepper is a great way to add spice to fish without changing it’s natural flavor. I would mix it in with some salt to ensure that you don’t add too much heat. Another way to add a unique twist to fish is to wrap it in banana leaves and grill over a low flame. Lightly spray the fish with a touch of water if the leaves appear to be getting too dry.
Also try cooking your fish over a hard wood fire. The smokey flavour is excellent for salmon or any other robust, high oil fish. Then make a rub with some good olive oil, fresh cracked pepper and some finely chopped anchovy filets. This adds incredible depth to the flavor of large filets like Barramundi.
Q: What is your favourite fish to work with?
A: Living on the west coast means we have a huge variety of outstanding local seafood to choose from. My personal favourite is Spring Salmon. It's high fat content and large filets make it adaptable to a wide range of cooking techniques. And it tastes great to boot.
Q: I like fish cooked medium rare. Is this the best way to cook fish?
A: Generally speaking, the higher the oil content of the fish, the more you can cook it. Sockeye Salmon is fairly lean and will dry out if cooked too much. A high fat fish, like Sablefish, remains moist even if cooked through and in fact, improves in texture and flavour when well done.
Q: Is frozen seafood of lesser quality than fresh?
A: While an absolutely fresh piece of fish is a truly wonderful thing, frozen products can be very good, and in some cases superior, if handled correctly. Many fishing boats now process their catch at sea, flash freezing the fish within a few hours of harvest. This produces a better result than if the fish is stored in the hull for three days, transported to market and then sold to the consumer up to a week after harvest as "fresh".
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Our expert: Chef Scott Pratico