This month's topic: Game Meats
 Our expert is Chef Michael Weisshaupt, The Manor in West Orange, NJ
Chef Michael Weisshaupt, who formerly manned the kitchens of renowned restaurants such as Restaurant Les Quatre Saisons in Basel, Switzerland and Manhattan’s The View restaurant, is no stranger to continental cuisine. His exposure to the art of the table began at age 15, at the Culinary Institute of Villingen, Germany in a program that included hands-on experience at a small hotel in the Black Forest region. Michael is making his name synonymous with great cuisine, showcasing his talents at The Manor. Under his skillful direction, The Manor received its 22nd Best of the Best rating from New Jersey Monthly magazine in 2005.
Q: What nutritional values does game meat have?
A: For those who love red meat, game is a healthy alternative. Farm-raised game is not only healthy, but also possesses flavor characteristics that many diners find appealing and refreshing. Farm-raised game meat does not have the wild, strong game flavor of its relatives harvested during hunting season. Instead, these animals are raised for their meat and carefully monitored. Unlike beef, game meat is mot marbled, which means that 98 percent of the fat lays on the outside of the skin. It can be easily removed before cooking.
Most game meats contain 75 percent less fat than beef, and at least 50 percent less calories.
Q: How do you avoid the “chewy” quality associated with game meats?
A: The lower fat content, is one reason why some game steaks can have that chewy quality. However, using a stock or marinade can help keep them from becoming overly tough and dry. Marinades are a great way to introduce flavor while preventing this from happening.
Q: What are the most popular or desired game meats today?
A: The most popular cut at The Manor is venison from New Zealand. I prefer to buy the whole saddle or back of the venison, so I can cut my own chops and loin medallions. This way, I also have the bones and trimmings for stocks and sauces. I also feature game birds like pheasant and squab on a regular basis on my signature chef menu. Recently, I introduced wild boar, which has been well received our customers
Q: My husband brought home some venison from a recent hunting trip and I'm eager to cook it, but I'm afraid that it'll taste gamey. Do you have any recommendations for preparation? Why does some venison taste gamey and some not?
- Suzanne Jeffers, Akron, OH
A: The venison your husband brought home has been living in the wilderness, so it will certainly taste a bit more tough and gamey. What you can do to ease the gamey flavor is marinate the meat for two to three days in a red wine marinade made with peppercorns, juniper berries, fresh ginger and fresh thyme. I recommend for the rack and loin to be prepared pan-seared medium rare to medium. Then let the meat rest for five to eight minutes before serving. When cooking leg parts, I prefer to prepare them like a beef roast and roast them whole. Use the marinade to deglaze the meat pan after you have seared the meat. Then braise the meat in the marinade. You can serve some braised red cabbage, sautéed brussels sprouts or sautéed mushrooms with your venison. A Lingonberry compote will complement the venison well while reducing the gamey flavor of the meat.
Q: A friend of mine gave me some frozen pheasant and I'm unsure of what to do with it. Do I prepare it like chicken or turkey?
- Ryan Ducase, Seattle, WA
A: The preparation is similar to a chicken, however the cooking time is a bit shorter as you will see below. Since the bird lived in the wild, the meat portion is going to be smaller than that of a chicken. Defrost overnight in the refrigerator. Wash and dry the bird with a kitchen towel. Season with salt and pepper then pan sear the pheasant. Roast in the oven at 350°F for 12 to 15 minutes per pound. The bird should be cooked until the breast is light pink; the thighs are edible while the drumsticks are very tough and almost meatless.
Q: Is there a cookbook that specializes in game meat preparation that you would recommend?
- Sheila Roberts, Needham, MA
A: There is a very large variety of books focusing on different meats and cuts available at Borders or Barnes & Nobles stores. A good beginner book is “D’Artagnan’s Glorious Game Cookbook” which is available in stores and on their website at www.dartagnan.com.
Q: I've always been interested in trying wild boar. How do you think it is best prepared?
- David Matta, San Francisco, CA
A: I recommend using the rack or loin of the wild boar. Marinate them for one or two days in olive oil with a few juniper berries, thyme and black peppercorns. Pan seared and cooked to medium rare or medium is the way I like to eat it. It’s great for a barbeque. I also recommend wild boar sausage.
Q: Do you have any recommendations for grocery stores or retailers where I can purchase high quality game meats?
- Ann Marie Chinne, Portland, ME
A: Try local gourmet shops or specialty supermarkets like Wegmans and Kings Supermarket for those in the Northeast region. If they don't carry game meats, a fantastic source is D’Artagnan. I buy 99 percent of the game meats for The Manor and for personal use from them. Their lines vary from game meats to smoked meats to patés and much more. You can order online and have items shipped next day directly to your home. Their website is loaded with information on products and recipes as well as monthly specials. www.dartagnan.com
Q: I recently found out that squab is actually pigeon. How is it different from the pigeons in Central Park?
- Kathy Ledger, New York, NY
A: A squab is a four-week-old, domesticated pigeon that has never flown, making it extremely tender. At this age, a squab weighs about 20 to 24 ounces with feathers and 14 to 16 ounces dressed out. These domesticated pigeons are raised for the dinner table. The older the bird is, the tougher it gets, especially when they are allowed to fly; they no longer become a table delight.
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