This month's topic: Cheese

Our expert: Chef John D. Folse,
CEC, AAC

With over 25 years in the industry and the international success of Lafitte’s Landing Restaurant, spawned the incorporation of several other Chef John Folse & Company properties. In August 2002, Folse opened Bittersweet Plantation Dairy in Gonzales, La., which offers cheese and cream to supermarkets, specialty stores and restaurants throughout the United States. Petit Marché, in Baton Rouge is a retail outlet for Folse’s cheeses, breads and pastries. Folse also has a nationally syndicated cooking show on PBS, “A Taste of Louisiana with Chef John Folse & Company”; and a radio cooking talk show, “Stirrin’ It Up With Chef John Folse & Company.”

Q: What is a good combination of cheese and wine to serve during the winter months? Are certain cheeses better in different seasons?
- Nicole Kopczewski, Cleveland, Ohio

A: We have many cheese and wine pairings suggested on our Web site at www.jfolse.com under the Bittersweet Plantation Dairy section. John does not recommend any particular pairings based on the seasons although he does note that some small artisanal producers may suspend production in the winter months, thus making those particular cheeses hard to come by. Also while production may be seasonal based on milk volumes, the quality is not generally affected by the season, so there is no advantage to consuming a particular type of cheese based on the time of year.

Q: Why don't low-fat cheeses melt?
- Alex Collins, San Diego, California

A: Actually there are many low-fat cheeses, including mozzarella, provolone and low-fat cheddar that melt quite nicely. Melting ability is based on the type of cheese not necessarily the fat content.

Q: Why are cheese plates served at the end of the meal and not before as an appetizer?
- Kevin, Portland, Maine

A: It is perfectly proper to serve cheese either at the beginning or at the end of a meal--it is entirely up to the restaurateur or diner. In Europe, the cheese plate or board is traditionally served after the entree to aid digestion before or in lieu of dessert, however a cheese plate makes a wonderful appetizer and is often offered as such at fine restaurants.

Q: Can cheese go bad without molding? If it is old, but there is no mold, can you still eat it?
-Rochelle Stewart, New York, NY

A: Yes a cheese can most certainly go bad without molding, generally as a result of temperature abuses or keeping it packaged beyond its shelf life. Cheese, like other food items is susceptible to spoilage if mishandled. And, the presence of mold does not necessarily indicate that the cheese has gone bad. As for the "if the cheese is old, but there is no mold" question, the answer is yes and no. Many cheeses, especially hard, aged cheeses improve with age, with or without the presence of mold. Others, destined to be consumed in 3-4 weeks may certainly age beyond their prime and may not be very appetizing, long before any mold grows. You could probably still eat it, but you would be unlikely to want to.

Q: How long is it safe to keep cheese and how should you refrigerate it?

A: Soft cheeses should be eaten soon after purchasing.  As a general rule, the harder the cheese, the longer it will remain fresh.  But remember, cheese will continue to ripen, no matter how carefully it is stored.  Hard cheeses will generally keep for several months, whereas softer cheeses will keep from one to three weeks after opening, if stored in an airtight container.  In addition, large pieces of cheese tend to keep longer than shredded cheese. Cheese should be refrigerated at temperatures of 35º to 40º Fahrenheit in the original wrapping or container, or wrapped loosely in parchment or waxed paper.

Q: If cheese gets moldy, should I throw it away?

A: Mold may develop on the surface of cheese.  Although most molds are harmless (i.e. blue, green, orange, or white), to be safe, cut away 1/2 inch of cheese on all sides of the visible mold.  Use remaining cheese as quickly as possible. 

Q: I love cheese, but I am lactose intolerant.  Can I still incorporate cheese into my diet?

A: Most of the lactose found in cheese is converted to lactic acid in the first steps of cheese making, and removed with the whey during the manufacturing process.  As a result, most ripened cheeses contain about 95 percent less lactose than whole milk.  Aged cheeses contain almost no lactose and processed cheeses contain only a slight amount more.  When shopping for cheese, look at the nutrition-facts panel on the labels.  If the amount of sugars listed is 0 grams, it does not contain lactose.

Q: In designing a cheese course for home entertaining or a restaurant, what cheese categories should one consider?

A: You should include a soft-ripened cheese such as a triple crème or brie. Also include a semi-hard cheese such as a jack or cheddar. Finally, I like to include a pungent or hard cheese such as blue or Parmesan Reggiano. In making your decisions, consider mixing and matching milk varieties such as cow, goat and sheep.

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